Saturday, 4 August 2012

Pawns in a system


“The human species can adapt and settle to any kind of environment. They could reside at the height of fifteen thousand feet, or build cities a few feet below the sea-level. Even one day you might find them developing settlement beneath the ocean. But look at animals, birds, insects - they follow nature’s judgment on choosing their height of comfort. For example, migratory birds always maintain certain height during their long distance flight. In spring time, you might have seen those swarms of dragonflies flying not more than fifteen feet above you in a late afternoon.  Even though they become happy fodder for Chataks (a type of small bird in Bengal), they remain undaunted in swerving and shining above against the dying sun.  I read somewhere, that there is a kind of insect which lives on egg-plants. It never crosses a height of four feet above the ground. So if you put a dense net across the plant covering that height, it is saved from the insect.” Aloke (not his real name) stopped at this point, and looked at me with the usual smile. We were sitting outside the club-house, and enjoying the evening breeze coming from the riverfront. At the end of another long torching summer day, we were cooling our souls in that lovely evening. The moon was almost full, and shining above us.  It created a maze of light and shade in the surroundings. Aloke appeared to me grown a bit aged than his usual self. His calmness and quiet voice struck me little odd, but I considered it was due to the hangover of the tiring heat of the day making its way in the coolness of the evening.

Aloke is my childhood friend. Now-a-days he does not live in my hometown. He has moved near Kolkata. The day before I came to visit my parents in my home town, and was planning to meet some of my old friends in the week-end. So it was quite a coincidence when he answered my call, and informed me that he was also in the town. We set an appointment at his club around eight in the evening. Last time we met there during Kali Puja. It was always refreshing for me to have an adda (tete-tete) with him. When I arrived there, I found him arranging a few chairs outside. He welcomed me, “Let’s sit outside. It’s so hot inside the clubroom. At least you get today nice breeze from the river.” We took our seats. He ordered for tea from the nearby stall. He was expecting others to join. However, they preferred to go inside to watch TV and  play cards.
I commented, “This is possibly the worst summer in my life.”
He said, “Hope so! You do not know what is waiting for you in coming days!”
 I asked, “You must be feeling horrible during daily commuting.”
Aloke travels daily by train to attend his office. I know these trains are so much crowded, that it may not be even possible to board them from an intermediate station like the one Aloke commutes from.
He replied, “I somehow manage to sneak in, and place myself beside the door of the coach. I do not bother how other two hundred passengers inside that compartment are struggling. I simply want to be among those four, who could stand near the gate, and at least, enjoy the cool air rushing from outside.”
“Is there no competition for those places?”
“Yes! You need to be an expert, experienced, and moreover extremely motivated to earn your prized position. It does not mean, I am in heaven and others are in hell! All of us are almost in the same boat brother, but fighting for a little personal preference on our adjustments! That’s how we human continue to live and grow! After all, the human species can adapt  ….”
This was how we started our conversation, where he distinguished a human being from other animals of this world for its unfathomed capacity and tolerance to adjust itself in a hostile challenging environment.

His words reminded me of experiences of one of my friends cum students on living in an uninhabitable part of this world –in our army barracks of Siachen Glacier.  He is a doctor in the army, and had spent a few years in Siachen. He told me how our soldiers live their days and nights in a temperature as low as 35 degree below the freezing point.  Before going to Siachen one has to go through an acclimatization program for about two months. If you fail the test, you need to go through again till you declared fit for the service. In Siachen camp, a doctor has a very important role not only to take care of physical health of the resident soldiers, but also to monitor their mental state. The doctor has to communicate with every soldier, and needs to take utmost precaution even for an ordinary syndrome like headache. In that high altitude, it may turn into a life-threatening sickness. It may require even his evacuation from the camp to its base. Then the decision of a doctor becomes so vital for his survival, that it needs a lot of courage and conviction, to fight against the camp commandant, if he shows any reluctance in permitting the much needed evacuation. I shared his experiences with Aloke. My doctor friend also told me how the soldiers had to carry out the task of patrolling in disputed areas among two countries. The word patrolling may sound to us as another routine benign task of a soldier, but its consequences may be far reaching for him and his family.  He said to me, “At least twice a month there would be patrolling in the disputed land. These are the areas where both the bordering countries put their claims. They can stretch as far as 50 km. from the camp. In Siachen, we have disputed lands with China and Pakistan.  In every patrolling team of roughly 110 to 120 persons, there would be a doctor. We used to divide ourselves into several groups, and cover the whole area walking overnight. It is like a hide-and-seek game. You need to keep yourselves out of your adversaries’ sight. For staking our claim over the territory, we had to walk about 10 to 12 Km. and then plant a flag at some point. We had to throw there some Indian stuff, like bottles, cigarette packets, tubes of tooth pastes and shaving cream, etc. If the Chinese saw you, they would shout, “Go back Indian! Go back!” But they are sensible. They only shout, do not shoot at you. If it is in the disputed area with Pakistan, then you have hardly any choice! You have to try your luck for dodging their bullets. Once, our team was patrolling on a hill top in the disputed area with China. We got a message from our base, that the hill was surrounded by the Chinese army. By mistake we had entered into their undisputed territory. Negotiations were going on between two sides. But we were advised to get ourselves out of their territory by making all efforts. Somehow, by crawling down from the other side of the hill, we could manage to sneak in into our territory.”
By narrating his experiences, I told Aloke, “In every season our soldiers are playing these strange “catch a thief” kinds of games, as we used to play them in our childhood. The problem is that kids are rational enough not to cause any injury in their mock-fights, where the adults are not so.  In our childhood game, if you were caught, you were declared “out”, and asked to be the chaser in the next turn.  But the games our soldiers play at the border have much harder consequences. Being caught at the hand of your opponent, you may spend your whole life in a foreign prison. If you are exposed to them, you may get injured or even killed. Also, consider the crores spent by both the countries for playing these games. Consider the huge effort in gathering man power and resources drawn to that high altitude camps in uninhabitable regions. How many lives would be wasted or sacrificed only God knows! But the show still goes on with ever lasting dispute on imaginary border.”
Aloke was listening intently to my words. When I finished, I found a strange smile on his lips. He told, “This is what our system is.  We cannot escape its dynamics. Siachen is no exception. We are all bound to the rules of the games dictated by this system. Knowingly or unknowingly, you have to play your role following its rules, on which you have hardly any control. Let me tell you a story. How our life is trapped in this system, you would get an idea from it.”
The story he told me after this, let me put it in his version.
“You know my father-in-law, a retired school teacher, quite aged now, around seventy years old. He has some ancestral property in a village about 20-25 Km. from here. Do you remember Sadiq Hossain (not his real name), our school mate?  He is from that locality. They ruled those areas as big land-lords before independence, and still have a lot of influence and property in that region. Of course, the village is in the interior, a few miles away from the little township around the main bus-stop. My grandfather-in-law used to take care of their ancestral property. He used to live there. After his death about three years ago, most of the landed property was sold.  Still the ancestral home and a few pieces of cultivable land are left with my father-in-law. About two years ago, father-in-law told me, “Aloke! I am thinking of repairing the temple in our ancestral home. I would also like to build a new temple in the memory of my father.”
I encouraged him to fulfill his wishes. He needed some assignment after his retirement. So in the month of February that year, we went there and stayed for a few days in his village. It was a real vacation for us. The whole family got elated, when the villagers gave us a warm welcome. The whole village celebrated the occasion of our home-coming and inauguration of the temple. Some of them told my father-in-law, “Babu (Sir)!  Do not forget us. You were like our guardians. Do not break the age old ties with us.” He also got  emotional and touched by their fellow feelings.

Last year again in the winter, we  went back to the village. This time father-in-law hosted a Samaj (its literal meaning is ‘society’, but in this context it is a social feast offered to the villagers). Once again, we could feel the joy and excitement of the villagers in having us among them. That was last year. In the beginning of this year, father-in-law decided to build a house there, as the old building was damaged heavily. He wanted to stay in the village more often, and spend more time with the villagers. The work got started. As he was looking after it, he made a temporary hut there and was living with my mother-in-law. This arrangement was going on from February this year. Most of the time, they were spending their days in supervising the construction work. Sometimes he used to say to me over the telephone, “Aloke! Why don’t you visit us? At least find how these two oldies are camping here in the jungle of concrete, and brickwork.”
Last Saturday, an unusual incident happened in that village. Like other days, he was taking rest in the evening inside his temporary hut. Suddenly he could hear sounds of commotion, and speeding footsteps outside his house. Coming out in the open space, he found a few villagers running with excitement. He asked them, “Why are you running?” They replied, “Folks in another part (called parha in Bengali) of the village caught a thief.” My father-in-law took no further interest in this matter.
However, as it happens in such a situation, the poor thief got a real thrashing from the villagers. Then the police came, and took him away in their custody. Next day,  Barababu (Officer in-Charge (OC) or the first sub-inspector (SI)) of that police station came to investigate the incident. He took statement from the villagers, and prepared a report. The villagers wanted to get it checked by my father-in-law. He pointed out that the date of the incident was missing in the report, which was taken care of swiftly. The matter ended there. At least, it appeared to them so.

On last Monday, father-in-law’s nephew visited him. He lives also in our town, but has homeopathy practice in their ancestral place. He went there to help his uncle in looking after the construction work. Around two o’ clock in the afternoon, he got a call in his cell phone.
“Where are you now?”
“I am in the village with my uncle.”
“Then don’t move from there. The whole area near the market place has become sensitive. The thief caught in your village has died today. He is from the Mohammedan community. So people from all these villages have become extremely agitated and violent. They blocked road, put vehicles in fire, shut the market place and gheraoed (blocking the entry and exit from a place) the police station. It is better for you to stay tonight at your uncle’s house.”
So the nephew decided to spend that night in my father-in-law’s place. In the evening a few villagers came to my father-in-law’s place, and warned him, “Babu. Police will be coming. You better leave this place.”
He rebuked them, “Why should I run away? What is there for me? Neither I robbed any one, nor I raised a single finger on that thief. So why should I be afraid of policemen? Let the police do their duty, let me do mine.”
The villagers silently departed from that place. In fact, all the male members of that village went somewhere else. None could be traced in that evening.

After an hour or so, three police vans entered the village. With them were the OC and the SDPO (Sub-Divisional Police Officer). They stopped near his hut. My father-in-law came out to greet them. The SDPO made a casual query, “You are …. ?”
He introduced himself and also his nephew as well.
Then they were told, “Please come with us for a while.”
Father-in-law enquired, “What is the matter?”
“Let’s go for a walk. We would like to have a chat with you.”
The nephew said, “I am not properly dressed. I am wearing only a ganzee (casual dress). Do we have to go far?”
“Put on a shirt on top of it.”
Almost immediately both of them went out with the police.

Even after two hours when they did not return, my mother-in-law started worrying. She rang me. It was around 9 PM. She informed me, “Aloke! Your father and his nephew went with the police, but they have not returned yet. I am having an uneasy feeling.”
I was wondering whom to call at that time. Almost everyone in that place, whom I knew was inaccessible. Either their cell phones were switched off, or they were not responding to my call.  Not a single known person could be contacted from that village. Finally I could get Sadiq’s Mejda’s (the second in the seniority of brothers) phone number. I called him. He informed me, “Police arrested your father-in-law, and his nephew. They brought murder charge against them.”  
I was shocked, “How could they bring such a false charge against them?”
He replied, “Police is helpless brother! The situation is totally out of control. The villagers are still waiting outside the police station. Even my Barda (the senior most brother) is not able to get into there. Police has to show some action. So they arrested them. Even the arrested persons are not kept here, in the fear of their safety. They were transferred to the near-by Sub-divisional Police Station. Tomorrow they will be produced before the court.”
As you know Sadiq’s family is very influential and rich in that area. So not letting the head of the family in intervening the matter indicates that the mob was extremely agitated and desperate to punish anyone related to the death!

Next day both the accused persons were produced before the court. But they did not get bail. It was not expected also. None can get a bail so easily being charged or framed under the Section 304 (of culpable homicide not amounting to murder) in the Indian penal code. It was altogether a different and a new experience to me. Before this event, I had never been to a court and had no knowledge of its affair – the show run by the lawyers, judges, court officials and clerks – overall, the proceedings of the hearing for bail application. The whole incident was a revelation to me. First, I was baffled to find the real reasons of the incident, and I realized that my father-in-law and his nephew became the victim of the situation – pawns to a cruel game – hatched by a few rich businessmen of that locality. They were not very happy with certain actions of Mejababu (the second Sub-Inspector or Police Officer) of that police station, who happened to be a good officer and was doing his duty rightfully. But his adversaries were on the look out of replacing him. In the previous jamana (the reign, in this case the period under the rule of left front), things would have been handled differently. They would have approached local party office, which in turn would contact the Alimuddin (the Party head quarter), and get the man in action replaced by a simple order from his superior. But now with the change of the Government, no one knows how to get this thing done. So they took a different route. First, they framed the officer by a false accusation of rape. Then this incident happened. It gave them a new window of opportunity. The victim being a Muslim, they played the communal card, sensing the new Government’s priority in keeping the Muslim vote-bank intact. So they posed the incident as the killing of a Muslim person by Hindu villagers, and incited the communal sentiment to a great extent. They also spread the rumor that Mejababu was responsible for the protection of culprits. Note that Mejababu was nowhere in the scene. It was Barababu who was the investigating officer. But these persons were desperate to castigate him by any means, and the unfortunate death of the poor thief gave them the necessary impetus. So the mob anger was channeled against the police station targeting Mejababu. The message went to the top and the local administration was instructed to pacify the villagers by any means. As a consequence the police lead by the SDPO, raided the village. The poor villagers left their houses. The police arrested my father-in-law and his nephew, whom they met on the very first occasion of their raid. They had to show to the warring mob, that they were successful in nabbing a few culprits!  Still the situation in that area is tense. Every evening the raids are going on in the village. Even as on today, no one could return to that village. I had to bring back mother-in-law from that place. With a great difficulty, by taking Sadiq’s Mejda’s help, I could bring her here.

When the bail applications were rejected, a young lawyer in that court advised me, “Look Aloke-da, let me be blunt. You may hire the most experienced and the costliest lawyer among us, and spend all your money to engage him. But, nothing will happen in this case in near future. Under the present circumstances, and the section framed against them, no way could you get them out of the jail-house. May I suggest an alternative? Now this case has moved to the district court. You have to apply for their bail there. You know that from the Government side, the case will be handled by PPs (Public Prosecutors). There is an in-charge of all the PPs in the district court. But there is also an unofficial in-charge of that in-charge. He is also a PP, and belongs to the ruling party. Contact him. He can instruct this official PP-in-charge not to oppose the bail application. Then only your father-in-law could get the bail. You should first contact your local MP or MLA. Through him, you try to contact the unofficial in-charge. This should work.”
I got the hint. This is how the system runs here. You cannot change or presume its rules on your own ideals. My father-in-law made that mistake by ignoring the advice of the semi-literate villagers to run away. He put his complete faith on the copybook integrity of our cops. I did not want to commit the same mistake again. So I took his advice seriously.
---
Next Morning, I went to meet our MLA. He is a real gentleman, and seems to be quite pragmatic and reasonable. He listened to my briefing of the incident. I could get some sympathy also, when I told that my father-in-law’s nephew acted as his poling agent in the last election. He could recognize him also by name. I requested him, “Dada (Sir)! Please do something! Tell your person in the district court to instruct the PP-in-charge to make some arrangement, so that those two unfortunate victims get their bail. They are truly innocent.”
He advised me, “Write two applications - one to the PP-In-charge, and the other one to the person who looks after our affair. I will write my recommendation on the second one.”
I further requested, “Dada! Please! Can you make a phone call to him, and explain the matter?”
He talked to the political PP over the phone, and asked me to meet him next day.
On Wednesday, I went to the district court and met the de-facto PP-in-charge there. He went through the papers. Then, he took Rs. 650/= from me for filing the bail application, and assured me that the case would be put up for hearing soon.
Unfortunately, due to this heat wave, cease work started in the court from yesterday. Initially we were told that it would begin from the next Monday. A section of lawyers also wanted so. Even on Thursday night, I had a talk with the PP over the telephone. He asked us to report to the court on Friday. Yesterday when we went there, we found vacation has already been declared till the 30th May.  However, the PP told us, “A few cases were put up in the Morning. Among them your case was also there. The next hearing is scheduled on the 31st May.”
I asked him, “Dada! Will they get bail?”
He smiled at me and told, “See, on that day the court should ask for the C.D. (case diary) to be produced, and fix a new date for hearing.”
“Then?”
“Then..”, he paused and then continued, “You should realize that if your party gets bail so easily even after being charged under the section 304, it would be quite unprecedented and may create a bad precedence for other genuine cases in future.”
It was not difficult for me to comprehend what he wanted to say by those words. This is what the system is. Whether an innocent person spends a few more days in the prison, is not a matter of priority before the court. Court has its own rational to declare sudden vacation, reschedule the hearings accordingly, and then proceeds in its own pace. The police have their own obligations for tackling the law-and-order in a challenging situation. Even if they had to go for shooting a few lame ducks to save their skins, they would not have an iota of hesitation to do so. Why should they care? Do they have any accountability whatsoever; even if no charge sheet is framed against those so called accused? Only those victims and their families are in the receiving end. They are to face the trauma and catastrophe out of these exercises. This is their fate in this system. Everyone is sympathetic and intelligent enough to realize that these two persons in all probability are innocent. But, once the game is on, the players and actors have to follow its rules and procedures in the process of granting them bail. Till then they have to spend their days behind the bar. So you see, whether it is in the glacier of Siachen, or in a village of Bengal, these games are being played, and you may become the poor hapless victim, centering whom the show would go on.”
When Aloke stopped, I wondered, “Do you mean to say, you went through all these troubles in last few days only?”
Aloke smiled and nodded, “The incident happened on last Saturday, just a week before. My father-in-law and his nephew got arrested on Monday Evening. Since then we are on the run. I am here since then. Tomorrow I would go home, and join my office on next Monday. Till the next hearing on the 31st May, I do not have any business on this affair.”
I did not find any words of consolation for him for a while. When I met him this evening, from his appearance I never imagined he was under such a stress. Even when he narrated me his recent experiences, he disclosed all the information in such an indifferent tone, that initially I thought he was telling me some happenings in the distant past.
I asked him, “Where are your father-in-law and his nephew now?”
“They are in the prison, in this town only.”
“How is the arrangement there?”
“Well, as it should be! There are 56 persons in a room of size  15 (feet) by 15 (feet).”
“Where do they sleep? Do they have cots?”
“Forget it! Even there is no room for spreading a bed sheet. I told you, it’s a room of 15 by 15, per person you would get an area of 4 sq. feet only! I was afraid to ask them to know how they are managing in that cell. But the jail warden is a good person. He told us, “Whenever you feel, you can come, and meet him. I have also asked other prisoners to behave with them properly.” During one such visit, my father-in-law told me, “Aloke! I had no idea what this world could be! Whether you believe or not, 70% of these prisoners are innocent. They are here without any reason. Even one of them is here in spite of receiving a bail.  There is no one to pay Rs. 200/=  as his bond. In his house, he has his wife and two kids only. They do not have any information either. So he is still here. Finally, I made an arrangement to send a letter to his home; hopefully he will be released soon. One day, from another cell, one of the heads of these prisoners came to visit me. He told me, “Mastermashai (an address to a school teacher)! I knew your father. I respected him a lot. I am a lifer (punished with life imprisonment). Even now there are three murder cases against me. But don’t worry. I told others to behave with you. If you face any trouble, just inform me.”  Being a teacher these people are giving me a lot of respect.” I told my father-in-law, “Sir, no wonder there are more innocent people like you in this prison. This is how we run our system. This prison is basically meant for all these poor socially backward people. They are the real victims. This prison is an instrument of keeping them terrorized. It is a coincidence that you happened to be here. Somehow you are caught in the net during the fishing hunt of our babus (powerful persons). You were at a wrong place at a wrong time.”
Aloke paused a while, and then asked, “What do you think a man should possess to survive in this system?”  
I looked at him expecting him to continue.
He observed, “Patience! More patient you are, better is the chance of your survival! It’s a test on your patience! Patiently you need to carry on what you are supposed to do. Do not loose it to defy the logic of this game. Rather, you should understand the script of the drama being staged, and play your role accordingly. Otherwise, you may get trapped in the uncomfortable zone of uncertainty with a catastrophic consequence in your life. Sadly I was miserable at my recent exercises. I could not keep my cool. I shouted at everyone I met concerning this matter; behaved crazily with my well wishers. God knows what I told them out of sheer frustration. Somehow, they tolerated me. But I need to be more careful. Now I am trying my best to assess the situation and rectify myself.  I am preparing myself for the next act of this drama.”

20/5/2012



Sunday, 13 May 2012

A Haircut


Since my childhood I always felt jittery before going to a salon. Having a haircut always seemed to me a bit of unavoidable nuisance. Even if you loose most of your hair, you hardly get any relief from the periodic cycles of haircuts. To make things worse, at those critical moments, when you were grieving for the loss, at every visit to a salon, you would be reminded by your friendly barber, with a voice full of concern and sympathy, “Sir! You are loosing hair! Aha!” Even if heaven falls on your head, you would have no other means to react, than accepting the hard reality with a wry smile on your lips, and holding your head tight at the mercy of his scissors and comb. The life that moment seemed to be so pitiable, so miserable!

I grew up in a semi-urban environment. Practically it was a mix of a village and a town. We had the freshness and ease of a rural life. We could also enjoy a few urban luxuries such as going to a movie-theater or watching a football match of our local league in the afternoon. When I was a kid, I had the luxury of getting the service of a barber at my doorstep. My father used to arrange it. He never used to disclose that fact before. Otherwise, I would try to play all my tricks to postpone the event. But I never succeeded in doing so. My father used to take the role of an assistant to the barber and supervise my haircut, so that it lasted pretty long. The session too used to be quite lengthy. Very often then, I would feel an itching sensation in different parts of my body, and try to reach my hand at those places. The barber would get annoyed with my movement, and say with a caution, “Don’t move, Babu! I am almost done!” Sometimes he would forcefully orient my head to an angle of his convenience. My immediate reaction was to resist, and try to regain my composure from the tyranny of elders as quickly as possible. That would force my father to hold my head and shoulder tighter. Those were tense moments for all of us. Each of us wanted to see the end of it. So, when my haircut was completed, everybody seemed to be relaxed and happy after accomplishing such a feat. 

After I started going to school, I was good enough to pay a visit to a barber shop on my own. Those were pre-AIDS era. We never bothered to check whether the blades were fresh or recycled. People in the middle-income group were more flexible and tolerant in defining their social status. They carried less prejudice over choosing a place of their haircuts, whether it looked ordinary, or gorgeous with a high fashioned decorated interior. Only determining factor was the cost of hair cut or shaving, that you would like to afford. Even there were a few enterprising barbers, who used to serve their customers on makeshift platforms by the side of the road. You could have your haircut at those open air Italian salons at the cheapest price.  For the sake of those readers, who may not be familiar with this popular Bengali coinage (‘Italian’), let me clarify that there is nothing Italian in their origin. The platform used by a customer to sit on, was usually made of bricks or tiles. The brick in Bengali is pronounced as ‘It’, and a combination of ‘It’ and ‘tiles’ created the context for this pseudo-glorification (with a foreign touch!) of these traditional hair-cut stops. Probably in my early outings, I was too shy to enter a formal shop, and I felt comfortable using one of these road side facilities.

However, as you grow up, you become conscious about your class and status. So I started going to a salon, which had chairs and mirrors in front of you. There was a bench for persons to sit and wait for their turn. It was staffed by two persons, the owner and his assistance. The nicest part of it was that it was by the side of the river Ganges, and you could enjoy the holy breeze of the river, while waiting for your turn. The deadliest part of it was that you would never know how long it would take. Even though you thought you were the next person, suddenly you would see that a senior would turn up and ask Anadi (that was the name of the owner of the salon), “I had to rush! Do mine next!” Anadi obliged him with a smile. I was too young to make any protest, and kept on waiting, and had no other option than watching the repeated artwork of Anadi. He used to wrap a piece of cloth, which would become dirtier with sweat and dust progressively, around the neck of a customer covering his shirt. Then he would go for initial trimming of borderline hairs around the head with the help of scissors and a comb. After that he would finish cutting of long hairs residing at the top and mid-region of the scalp, sometimes by running fingers through them and pulling upwards, sometimes leveling and collecting them using a comb. The back of head was further made even with a two-legged clipper, with its fine teeth running smoothly over the hairy surface giving you a creepy sensation. Finally, with a khur (a kind of sharp handy knife used by barbers for shaving head and beard), he would tonsure the hairlines near ears and back of neck and give them a nice semi-circular shape. At last your moment of freedom would arrive! He would show the back of your head using a mirror expecting a tone of appreciation from you. At those moments, some of his customers used to go through a critical review for a while, and asked him for further sharpening of their cheek lines or neck lines, as they felt appropriate.

I watched it so many times that I longed to have a real run on someone’s head someday. My fortune shined one day. I was in a boarding school then, for my higher secondary (pre-college) study. In fact it was a college, where high school program was also running. It was in the month of January, a few weeks before our Republic day. On every Saturday Morning, we used to have our NCC drill. That day we had a special guest commandant. He was supervising our preparation for the Republic day parade. After going through the rows of cadets, the commandant announced with a clear and loud voice, “Listen Boys! I could see many Bombay-heroes today, standing before me with long hair, fashioned across your ears and shoulder. I would like to see them gone; gone at least for your participation in the Republic day parade. Next week, I will check. If there is anyone, whose hair comes out of your cap, I will make sure that he is thrown out of this show, and will make his life miserable.”
There ran a deep anguish and hush-hush sound among the audience. A few unfortunate targets among us must have felt the pressure of refining their hairlines. My room-mate was among them. His head was full of hairs, which nicely curled below his ears and almost touched the shoulder line. He was so passionate about keeping them, that it was a difficult choice for him to submit before the whims of a commandant! After coming back from our drill, I found him repeatedly trying to observe the status of his hairline in front of a mirror by using another projected from the back. I helped him by holding the mirror behind. He heaved a deep sigh after knowing that he had no chance of hiding them behind his NCC cap. So he sat thoughtfully on his chair, and tried to figure out a rescue plan.  He was one of the sharpest minds in our class. We considered him the best in Maths, as he learnt Calculus in Class X. By the time he took admission in class XI, he had finished two volumes of Piskunov. The other aspect of his nature was his passion for tidiness. He was always clean and tip-top with his dress and belongings. His books were well arranged in shelves. He would never throw paper foliages on the floor. Even if he noticed anything fallen on the floor, he would pick it up and throw it on a waste basket. His study table was nicely organized, almost, containing just the ones, which he required then. Every Morning he was the person who used to broom the floor. Myself and the other room-mate (three of us were sharing the room) were the direct beneficiaries of his passion for orderliness.
He consulted me, “Could there be a large enough cap to cover my hair? What about yours? Let me try it.”
I gave it to him. But it made no difference. As such the size of his head was larger than usual. That accentuated the problem further. The cap was just enough to be fitted on top of his head. After being placed there, all around it wavy dense hairs confirmed their unquestionable existence to the outside world.  He got more depressed with these findings.
I suggested him, “Why don’t you bunk the next drill?”
He gave a shocking look at me through his high powered glasses, “But, that would mean I will be left out from the Republic day parade! I don’t want that.”
We remained silent for a while. Then, I said, “I can do one thing. Let me put your NCC cap on your head, and trim your hairs around, just enough not to be seen from outside.”
 “Can you do it?” he was doubtful.
“I watched it so many times. It should not be a big deal.” I assured him.
To my surprise he agreed.
---

The next Morning, which was a Sunday, we settled to our business. Our room was in the first floor of our hostel in its south block. Between the two blocks, North and South, there ran a balcony cum a wide open corridor. Our room was just adjacent to this balcony. We used to have our sun-bath in winter times there. We took a chair in the balcony.  The morning mist just moved away and the sun was shining above us. My friend sat on the chair turning away from the sun. He wrapped an Uttariya (a piece of cloth to wear during the Morning and Evening prayers in our hostel) over his body. He also had a small mirror in his hand for his supervision. Finally I placed his NCC cap over his head and asked him whether that was the right position for him. He nodded. So my task was then to trim the hairs, which were visible outside the cap. I ran the scissors through hairs covering his right ear. Those little pieces fell near his legs. He shuddered, but after observing the effect through his mirror he nodded, “Fine! It should be acceptable to that man!” His confidence in me boosted my courage and morale. So I continued. I trimmed the front hairs looming over his forehead. They nicely receded behind the cap. After removing the cap, my friend made a survey of my work using the mirror, and appreciated, “Great! You are an expert.”

In the mean time, we had a little gathering around us. Some of my friends and dadas (seniors doing their graduate studies in our college) were surprised to find me in this occupation. One of them commented, “I didn’t know that you mastered this skill!” Another seemed to be sarcastic, “Good for you! Your future is rest assured!” But I was unmoved. So was my friend. We continued, and after a while those curious eyes left the place as they lost interest at the slow progress of my work. I was doing it very carefully. At every step, I was asking my friend whether he felt the trimming was appropriate. He was a generous critique. He assured me, “It is just fine. Finish it.”  I also felt so. I could push his hairs’ front and side lines within the territory of the cap. Then I went for conquering the last frontier of this struggle – the back yard of his head. There was a significant outgrowth towards his shoulder, and it appeared to be a lot of work to restrict them within the territory of his upper neck. I started trimming those curly hanging pieces, but could never really decide to what extent his hairline would remain confined. The problem was more aggravated by the fact that I was not able to consult my friend, as he could not see the state of the affairs in his back. There was only one single mirror at his hand, and no way could I show him the latest updates on his hairline. I told, “It’s a problem. You have enough at the back, and they could not be suppressed by this cap.” He told me, “Just cut their tops. That should reduce their thickness and depth.”
I ran the scissors as per his advice. Using the comb, I was cutting the top sections of those pieces of hairs. I found it became increasingly difficult for me to give the right shape with the scissors and comb only. It should have a smooth slope down the scalp towards his shoulder. I remembered the use of a clipper at those places. But it was a too late realization. By that time I produced a few hairy steps there, which looked like a Jhum cultivation over a hilly terrain. Finally I resigned and declared, “It’s done!” It was partly true, as with the NCC cap fitted on his head, hardly you could see any hair outside it.

My friend was totally ignorant about the state of his hairy affairs. He was quite happy then to think that our mission was accomplished! Only the devilish giggle I could not suppress after looking at my hard work. That made him suspicious. So he went to our room and observed the back of his head using two mirrors, and sat silently on his chair. I sincerely offered my apology. He did not utter a single word to me, and ignored all my entreaties. He was too angry to talk to me. I was full of guilt and shame, but did not know how to restore his confidence in me.
---
Next Morning we went to our college. My friend was conspicuously absent on that day. Some of my other friends enquired about him. I told them that he might not be feeling well.  During a break we came out from our class room, which was situated at the second floor of the building. The corridor in front of this room was facing the road of the campus, and some of us were enjoying the sun there. One of us pointed out, “Look, who is going?” We saw a figure with white shirt and pant (our college uniform) and a sunglass on his eyes. A handkerchief was wrapped around his head covering its back-side. It was my friend. I understood he was going to have a proper haircut then. When we called him, he waved his hand towards us.

After returning to my room in the afternoon, I found him having a real military hair cut. He was sitting on his chair and reading a book. He was also humming a tune, while going through it. I was relieved to see him again in his jolly mood. I asked him, “How did it go?”
He replied, “The barber looking at your artwork burst into laughter. Even he called a few fellows there to show it. Then he charged twice to bring it into this shape.”
I offered my sincere apology once again. He smiled, “Next time! It is my turn. During your sleep, one day I will show my expertise on your head.”
I knew he didn’t mean it. He was too nice to do any harm to anyone!

23/04/2012

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

A Trip to Minsk


From the very beginning, I had to fight with Jhuma, when she learnt about my intention of attending a conference at Minsk. She insisted, “We had the least idea about that country. It may not be safe. You should not go there.” But, I kept on pleading her. At last, she resigned, but gave me an angry look, and casually mentioned, “If your trip gets cancelled, I would offer a dala  (a collection of items including money, fruits, sweets, etc. meant for worshiping God) to the temple”.  I had no idea why she was worried so much. Even some of my friends were also curious, “Why Minsk?” But from my childhood I was always enchanted by the colorful pictures painted in the magazines of Soviet Union, which we could get then with a throw-away price. I always wanted to visit those places and talk to people, who seemed to live in a different system than ours. Even after the fall of Soviet Union, I am still having the same urge of visiting different places of Russia and its break away republics to know how their life was during Soviet Era. A few years before (in 2002) I did visit snow-covered roads and fields of Moscow, and was thrilled to see the famous statue of Lenin calling his countrymen to join the revolution, and the towering figure of Yuri Gagarin on the road side, while traveling by a car. We walked through the streets of Moscow, its red square and could see the remnants of displaced socialist system. This time too, when I had a chance to visit the capital of Belarus, I did not want to miss the opportunity. The only impression I had about that country, was that its gymnasts were very good to win many Olympic medals, and during Nazi aggression in the Second World War the people there fought bravely to defend their homeland. But it took a few months to get a formal invitation letter with some ministry clearances from my host, and finally when I submitted my visa application to the Belarus embassy in New Delhi, there was no decision on my application even after a few weeks. Somehow my travel agent managed to get it at the eleventh hour, and he promised me to hand it over with tickets and dollars on my arrival at Kolkata in the evening of my departure. That he did, and I could get through the immigration counter at Kolkata airport to board an Air India flight to Mumbai. From Mumbai I would fly to Moscow, and then from there to Minsk. When my plane left the runway, it was a huge relief for me, and I told myself that at least Jhuma did not have to take the trouble of offering a puja (worship to God) on my account.

There was only a gap of an hour and a half for catching the connecting flight to Moscow at Mumbai. I did express my apprehension to my travel agent, but he assured me, “Do not worry. You will find a person from Air India waiting for you in the terminal with your name written on a placard. They would transfer you to the Moscow flight.” Though my flight landed in right time, it waited for half an hour in the runway to park near the terminal, and then the passengers were brought to the arrival lounge by a bus. When I came out from the bus, only forty minutes were left at my disposal.  To my utter dismay I did not find anyone waiting there for transferring me to the Moscow flight. So, I rushed to the Air India transfer desk, and asked my boarding pass for Moscow. The person attending there answered casually, “Moscow? Who is in charge for Moscow?”  Someone answered him, “Nalwa.”
“Nalwa! Please take care,” saying this he instructed me, “Please go to him.”
Mr. Nalwa looked at me, and asked to his colleague sitting nearby, “Is there any flight to Moscow now?”
“Yes. A flight arrived today Morning.”
He took my passport, ticket and the boarding pass of my Calcutta-Mumbai flight, and then got busy with his work, answering queries to other passengers in between. I was counting minutes then. After a few minutes I requested him earnestly, “Mr. Nalwa! My boarding pass!”
“Oh! Your boarding pass,” and then he shouted “Who is taking care of transfer to Moscow flight?” Another youth came forward. “Please go with him. He will get you into plane.”  He gave my ticket, boarding pass and the passport to him.
The person accompanying me advised, “Run Yaar! You would miss the flight!”
“What about my luggage?”
“Chhoro Yaar! There is no time for getting your luggage into the carrier.”
My heart stopped! How would I manage without my clothes and other essentials in a foreign land? Anyway I was running as best as I could with my companion’s careful guidance.  We stopped near the security check point. There was a long queue waiting for me to join. My guide got nervous, “Wait Yaar! Let me see whether they would allow you to board.” He vanished behind the security line. I stood there for about ten minutes, and was still hoping for the best. Finally, I could see him coming out of the forbidden zone, walking casually and exchanging light remarks with some of his friends.  
“Sorry Yaar! They did not allow you to board without your luggage!”
I was totally dumbstruck! Yet in stead of being furious, I felt curious to see how the situation being handled by the Airlines.
---
A year before, the movie ‘Terminal’ was released. I had no idea I would be in a state somewhat similar faced by the main character (Victor Navorsky) of that movie.  Of course contrary to his melodramatic experiences, mine was a real traumatic one.  In the movie, on arriving at the JFK International Airport at New York, Navorsky was denied an entry to USA, as his passport was no more recognized by the state owing to the change of guard in his country through a military coup. Neither could he go back to his own country for the same reason. So he had to stay at the transit lounge for days and weeks. I had also a problem to leave this transit zone. I did my immigration in Kolkata, and was waiting in the transit lounge to depart. So it was not possible for me to simply walk out from the zone without rechristening myself for an official entry to my own country.  I was not sure also, what the protocol would be, if I had to abort my journey and go home. So it appeared to me, only way I could resolve this paradox, was by going to Minsk, and coming back with those foreign immigration stamps in my passport. I had still a day to spare for presenting my paper. I still could make it, if I had the proper connectivity of flights in between. So I presented myself to the same Air India transfer desk, and demanded a solution. I also explained them my prevailing transit status. It seemed they were also confused, and felt safer to transfer me to Minsk or to any other place by any means. So they immediately flung themselves into action, and quickly discovered that about an hour later, there was a flight of Air India to Frankfurt, from where I could board a plane to Minsk. But, they were disappointed soon to know that I had no visa for Germany, and even not a transit visa for going out of the airport to spend the night there. I was also not feeling comfortable to go to Germany without a confirmed ticket to Minsk. Neither were they confident. Yet they sent a telex message requesting a confirmation for my ticket to Minsk from Frankfurt. So every five minutes, I used to go to the counter, and inquired whether they received any reply from Frankfurt. I never knew whether eventually they received any reply. It became irrelevant soon, as the AI flight to Frankfurt departed in the scheduled time.

In the mean time, there was a changeover in the duty-shift at the transfer desk, and I came across of a person, who had an appearance like the cricketer Sandip Patil in his playing days. He assured me that they were doing their best, and quickly they would resolve the matter. Finally, he told me, that they arranged my journey to Moscow via Delhi. There was a flight next morning from Delhi.  From Moscow, I would go to Minsk. However, in this case also, they were waiting for the confirmation for the last leg of the journey; that was from Moscow to Minsk.
“Please wait Sir. Once we get the confirmation, everything would be fine. We will send you to Delhi by tonight’s AI flight.”
I said, “I have no problem in waiting, if there is some decent arrangement for taking my rest.”
He apologetically told, “Oh! Sure Sir! Go to the Maharaja Lounge, and relax. I am arranging it. Take these coupons for your breakfast and lunch. Your flight to Delhi would be in the evening.”  
---
What else could I do? I went to the so called Maharaja Lounge, and laid myself in a couch, haunted by several ifs and buts in my mind. I needed to get my travel itinerary, so that I could inform my host at Minsk about the change of my program. Though I informed her about my misfortune of missing the flight by sending an email, I needed to notify her alternative arrangements. I called my travel agent. He told me, “There should not be any problem in getting the confirmation. Let me also send a request from my system, so that we could get it a little early. Please check from the counter after half an hour.”
So every half an hour, I was showing my face to the counter, and was getting the same reply, “Please wait. Once we receive the confirmation, we will inform you.” In the mean time, in the lounge another Maharaja (King) turned up. In the earliest opportunity, he took a blanket and a pillow from the receptionist, and lied down on a sofa into a dark corner of the room. The young receptionist also advised me with a cheerful voice, “You too Sir, take rest!”  I took his advice. There was nothing much I could do in that situation. I started quite early that morning, and the best I could do was to get some sleep to release my tension. So I stretched myself on a couch, and closed my eyes.

Probably I slept for an hour. Immediately after waking up, I went for my routine query at the transfer desk. There was still no breaking news for me. After returning back, I found my co-passenger was also awake. In the morning, I had seen him. He was shouting against those people at the desk, and demanding to meet a higher official of the Airlines. I asked him, “Why are you here? Did you miss your flight?” 
“No. My flight is in the evening. But I arrived here in the Morning from Bangalore. I was supposed to be put into a hotel during this period. The staff at Bangalore told me, that they had sent a telex message about my accommodation. But, these people simply denied receiving any such message. Even I cannot leave this place on my own as I am now a transit passenger.” 
I told him, “Yes. As far as I know, that is true.”
“Me too! I told that same dam thing to the Airlines staff in Bangalore. But they told me that there would be a separate arrangement for taking transit passengers by a bus from the airport. Dam liars! All false promises! I will not leave this matter. I will sue the Airlines. How could they harass a passenger in this way? Just imagine, I have to be here from Morning to Evening, just for nothing!”
“Where are you going?”
“Bahrin.”
“Are you Indian?”
“Yes. But I have my property there. Almost a year I am living in Bahrin.”
“What do you do?”
“I am a Civil Engineer, as well as an Architect.”
Then he asked my reason of becoming a ‘Maharaja’ in that lounge. I told him how I missed the flight. He remained silent for a while, looked at me with sympathy, and then advised me bluntly, “You won’t get anything, if you don’t shout against them. No one will care for you. That is why I was asking for their boss in the Morning. But could not get any one! Even they were not able to trace out the telex message sent from Bangalore. Good for nothing!”
The receptionist  came to us and suggested, “Sir! The lunch will be available now. Please take it early. Very soon other transit passengers will come there. You may not get anything, if you are late.”  He was really a good host, always taking good care of these unfortunate Maharajas!

After finishing my lunch, I reported to the desk, and this time got the news to my delight. “We received the confirmation. Please come after an hour. Around 2:30 PM. We will hand over you your tickets.”
I asked, “May I get my new travel itinerary?”
“Sure.” I was given a print out from the computer. I found that I had to leave for Delhi at 8:25 PM. Next morning at 5 AM, I had my flight to Moscow. It would reach there around 8:45 AM. From there I needed to catch the flight to Minsk at 10:45 AM. Finally I would arrive at my destination at 11:05 AM.
---
At 2:30 PM on dot, I went to the desk for collecting my tickets, and discovered that a new person was sitting there – much younger than his predecessor. When I asked him about my tickets, he replied, “No confirmation yet!”
It was a real blow to me. I said, “But I was told that my ticket is confirmed, and was asked to collect the tickets now.”
“Nope!” he reasserted after checking the system, “There is no confirmation for your travel.”
I showed him the print out given by the previous person managing the desk. He went through it, and returned it to me, “In my system, still I do not find it confirmed. Please wait for some more time.”
Then another gentleman, a senior colleague of his, came to my rescue. He told, “Yes! There is a confirmation. You can put him in the flight to Delhi. He would be given boarding passes in Delhi.”
But the young man was not convinced, and was still hesitating on this matter. Then on the insistence of his senior colleague, he told me, “Okay! I am putting you in our flight to Delhi. Please go with our staff, and identify your luggage. We have to put a new tag on it.”
So I went with a staff of the Airlines, and ignored the frown of security guards at the entry gates being escorted by him. We came near the exit point of the departure terminal. There I found my VIP-suitcase was lying like an orphan child with some other luggage on a dusty floor. There were a few persons talking among themselves. The moment I identified my bag, they were more than eager to put a tag on it. After coming back to the transit lounge, I went to the desk again and asked for my tickets. The young man replied, “That is not necessary. We are sending a telex message to Delhi. Our staff will help you to get the boarding pass.”
I expressed my concern, “As far as I know, even if I have a boarding pass, I need the ticket to board the aircraft.”
But, he assured me, “Don’t worry! We are taking care of your journey. Our ground staff at Delhi will be informed, and they will arrange everything required for you there.”
I rang my travel agent and told him the new arrangement. He was also surprised, “They should have issued you tickets. However, the telex message might do. They might be arranging E-tickets for you.”
Though I was apprehensive of going to Delhi without having the tickets or boarding passes, I tried to draw comfort from his words.  At least, I could see an end to my waiting at Mumbai.
---
The flight AI 310 was going to Seoul via Delhi and Hong Kong. We boarded it in the scheduled time. Still I was anxious to know whether my wandering luggage finally got a place in the carrier. I requested the captain, whether he could verify its loading. He was nice enough to comply, and made a check with my tag. Finally, he informed me that it was in his list. It brought me an instant relief. I started enjoying the comfort of my short trip to Delhi. Beside my seat, a lady was traveling for the first time to a foreign country. Her husband was working at Seoul. She was going to meet him. She was quite nervous to make the journey. I gave her a few tips on international travel. As soon as the plane took off, I could not keep my eyes open. But I had to wake up soon at the call of  the air-steward. Our dinners were being served. After that, hardly could I close my eyes, as I was eagerly waiting to see how the ground staffs of the Airlines at Delhi handle my case.

The plane reached New Delhi in time. While coming out from the aero-bridge two airlines staffs were checking our boarding passes. They were tearing a part of it. I told them, “I am a transit passenger.” They looked at me, but did not reply back. As usual they tore a part of my pass and went for the next passenger. After coming out I took the direction for transit passengers, But while trying to enter into the transit area, I was denied the entry. The security guard told me, “Only Airlines staff can go through this gate, Sir!” I said, “But no one received me here.” He suggested, “Please go downstairs. They might come there.” I was confused. Instead of going down, I went back to the gate of the aero bridge. Those two staffs were still counting those torn parts. I told them, “How do I enter into the transit area?” One of them took pity on me. He told me, “Come with me. We know you have to catch the Moscow flight”. He started calling some-one using his walkie-talkie, “Please come. Your passenger has arrived.” I was relieved to know things were placed in order. He brought me into the transit area, and asked me to wait before the Air India transfer desk. However, no one was there at that time. But he assured me, “Please wait here. Within five minutes, Mr. Nanda will meet you.”  By saying this he left the place calling over his walkie-talkie, “Nanda! Nanda! Nanda! …”  He vanished from my eyes for ever, and never came back to see whether some Mr. Nanda took the trouble of meeting me. But for the next few hours, his loud call to Mr. Nanda was resonating in my ear drums.

The next one and half hour was the testing time of my patience. I must admit that I was miserable at that. The transit area was thickly crowded. Always there were movements of passengers, airlines staffs, airport workers, and many others. I was waiting there standing in front of the counter, leaning against a pillar in the hall, holding my hand trolley. It was a catch twenty two situation for me. Neither could I leave the place with the apprehension that Mr. Nanda might come, and would return back without meeting me. Nor I was sure whether I would be able to get him by standing whole night there. So any one, whom I met, looked different from a passenger, I started asking whether he or she was an Air India staff. I could find none. One person told me, “Sir! I draw trolleys and carry luggage. That’s why I am here. Those babus (officers) are in the Maharaja Lounge upstairs. If you go there you could meet them.”  An Indian Airlines staff commented, “Shout! Man! Shout! Go up, and shout.” A few passengers also noticed my long waiting, standing with an expectation to meet someone. One of them advised me, “Why don’t you go to the lounge and ask the receptionist to call an official?” I considered his suggestion, and went to the lounge upstairs. The receptionist helped me calling the PRO of the Airlines over the telephone. She told me, “Please wait before the desk. One of my colleagues will attend you.”

At last, a person, named Mr. Kumar, appeared before me. He told me wryly, “We know your problem. These people from Bombay! If they face any problem, they always pass it to us. Let’s see, what can be done. If it is not resolved, we will send you back to Bombay.”
I could not believe what he was saying to me. I told him, “I was informed that they had sent a telex message to you. There should not be any problem in getting the boarding pass.”
“Why did not they issue you a ticket?”
“I asked for it too!”
“I do not know how these Bombaywalas (residents of Bombay) run the business! Just a telex message! Is that all? Anyway, let’s see. The Aerofloat counter will open around 2 AM. I will come then. Let’s see whether they agree to take you.”
I looked at my watch. Still I had to wait for one and half hour to know my destiny!
Mr. Kumar further added, “ But, your luggage hadn’t arrived here.”
I was amazed to find how a fact confirmed previously could so easily be negated on the next occasion! I was going through these experiences since I missed the flight.  Had I not confirmed from the captain of my previous flight, I had no other means to verify the fact, and would have accepted it meekly to my great distress. However, I told him, “I confirmed its loading into the carrier from the captain while boarding at Mumbai.”
“Is it? Then we have to check it properly.  It might not have been unloaded from the plane. I could not trace it in the arrival hall. Anyway, I have many other things to do. I have to look after passengers of three flights, though you are our top priority. I will come, when the counter opens.” Thus saying Mr. Kumar took exit from the arena.

Now I had the privilege of occupying a seat. It was good to know that someone from the Airlines was working with my tickets and boarding passes. After a while I found airline staffs from Aerofloat were looking for passengers to Moscow. I told them, “I am also a passenger of this flight. I will go to Minsk from Moscow.” I also explained them how I missed my flight to Moscow from Mumbai the day before. Immediately they took my passport and ticket. I requested them not to tear any page from it. My return tickets were also with it. Already the ticket from Mumbai to Moscow was taken away by the Air India staff at Mumbai.  Sometime later they came to me, “We are not getting your name in our system. There was no luggage either against you. Where is the staff from Air India?”
I told, “He was supposed to come here around 2 AM. Could you please check whether you get anyone from the Airlines? His name is Mr. Kumar.”
They tried to get him, but failed to trace him. So they returned my ticket and passport, “It is better you find him, and clarify the matter.”

Mr. Kumar came around 2:30 AM. He assured me, “I am working out your problem. I have arranged a ticket for you from my Duty Manager.” The duty manager of Aerofloat also came to meet me. He told me, “Your ticket is alright. But now we have to enlist your luggage. For this we need to screen your luggage in the X-ray machine and put a tag there.” Mr. Kumar gave this responsibility to one of his young colleagues. I was still in doubt, whether my luggage really reached there. So I asked the duty manager, “If my luggage hasn’t arrived here, may I board the aircraft without it?”
“Why not?”
“In that case, I am ready to board the plane without it, if necessary.”

Next half an hour I spent in planning how to manage my tour with a few things which I was carrying in my hand luggage. Around 3 AM, a lady from the Aerofloat Airlines came to me and informed, “We could trace your luggage. Everything is fine. Give me your ticket and passport. We will issue you a boarding pass.”
Oh! Dear! What great news! I was in the state of supreme happiness then, and started dreaming the sunrise at Minsk. I kept on waiting and was eagerly looking for the return of the Aerofloat staff for handing me over my boarding pass. Precious time was ticking away. The security check had started already. There was a long queue of passengers before it. I was feeling tensed again. Would there be sufficient time for me to clear the security check?  Once I had a glimpse of the lady who took my ticket and passport. She assured me, “Everything is fine sir.”

At last the duty manager came to me. I told him eagerly, “Give me my boarding pass. I needed to clear the security.”
He smiled at me and said, “You have a problem. For going to Minsk, you require a transit visa from Russia. You do not have that. Otherwise, you might have to give a hefty penalty at Moscow Airport. Even they may not allow you to return back.”
It was a bolt from the blue! The last nail in my coffin! I was not sure whether I should believe him or not. But I understood that I was not wanted in the fight. I told him, “So far no one told me about this.”
“Yes. Air India should have checked it.”
He returned my ticket and passport. I told him, “Could you please inform the Air India?”
He said, “That’s a big task! It is difficult to get those people. Anyway let me see what I can do.”
---
After half an hour, the duty manager came with Mr. Kumar. Mr. Kumar told me, “Now we will be sending you to Bombay.”
I told him curtly, “I am not going there. What business I have there? Now I have to return to Kolkata. Make an arrangement for that.”
“But there is no flight to Kolkata.”
I suggested, “My return is via Delhi. I have to go to the Domestic terminal. Please arrange my immigration clearance.”
He replied, “I have many things to do. I cannot afford to give so much time for a single passenger. If you want I can send you back to Bombay only.”
I pressed, “Please note that as a transit passenger I am now your responsibility. If I do not want to go to Bombay, you have to arrange my Immigration clearance. Please try for it. Otherwise, I do not see any other solution to this problem.”
He finally got convinced, and said, “Let me talk with my duty manager. Whatever he says, I will follow. Let’s see whether we can send you back with the immigration clearance.”
---
Around 5:30 AM, he came back, “With a lot of persuasion, I could make the head of the immigration department here, agree to let you go. He would clear your immigration. After that you can go outside to take the flight to Calcutta from the domestic terminal. Please give me another half an hour. I need to write a letter to them.”
I was relieved to know that I would get back my freedom of movement in my own country. After that, the unfolding of subsequent events could be described in brief. Nonetheless they were very vital for regaining my freedom. I was indeed grateful to Mr. Kumar for bringing an end to my floating citizenship. Being lead by him, I could manage to sneak through different security zones. He brought me at the office of Immigration Department. The head himself stamped my passport to cancel my immigration. Then I came back to the transit area to get my luggage. Finally Mr. Kumar took me to an unconventional exit door for my uneventful   departure from the terminal. Though I had the disappointment of not making my final destination, it was a great relief for me to become free from the imprisoned state of transit. My return to Kolkata was through a Sahara Airlines flight. As I had missed its Morning flight, I had to wait day long for taking the afternoon flight, which was scheduled at 4:40 PM.

So that’s it. When I reached Kolkata, it was about thirty eight hours after I started from the same place the day before. Till date I am not sure, whether I really needed a Russian transit visa for boarding the flight of Minsk from Moscow. Neither, did I ask Jhuma whether she had kept her promise at the altar of almighty after my trip got terminated.
25/03/2012

Sunday, 11 March 2012

A Game of War


‘War’ and ‘Patriotism’ – seem to be two favorite topics of American TV channels – especially in their news channels, as if these two are integrally built in their cultural heritage. During my stay at Dave’s place in the year 2007, every evening I used to surf these channels and often find programs related to them.  It is also a fact that no other nation fought as much as Americans did in recent times, in particular in last twenty years or so, and none of those wars, were fought in their own land. Nevertheless you would find American soldiers fighting through out the world for some reasons or so; be it a peace keeping mission, or a mission for eliminating weapons of mass destruction.  The only major war or aggression, they faced in their territory in the last century, was from Japan during the Second World War. That too took place far away from their main land in Pearl Harbor. In return, the horror and devastation that it brought into Hiroshima and Nagasaki, was beyond anyone’s imagination. No doubt it brought a quick end to the Second World War, but it also terrified the whole world by sending a clear and loud warning of beginning of the era of nuclear warfare threatening the very existence of this planet. Then in the beginning of this century, a similar mistake, though in a different magnitude, was committed by a little known terrorist group, Al Qaeda. They blew the twin towers of New York using their indoctrinated followers in the September, 2001. This single act of terrorism was sufficient enough to invite the American wrath and war in this part of world. They showered all the modern conventional weaponries from their arsenal in the hilly terrains and caves of Afghanistan to chase the then rulers, Talibans, away from their safe havens.  In 2007, America was at the height of their Iraq campaign, and was bleeding heavily in the battlefields there. So it was quite natural, that all the pro-establishment media would take proactive roles in fanning sentiments around ‘war’ and ‘patriotism’ to counter a rising popular dissent against the campaign. When Dave told me, “Next Sunday, let’s go for watching a game of war,” I was curious, but not surprised at all. The week-end before, the nation observed the Veteran’s day. I thought the show, Dave was referring at, must be a continuation of that event.  But he clarified, “It’s like enacting an incident of our civil war, with all the melodrama and fan fare. It’s a part of our tradition.”
“Where will it be held?”
“In a place near my brother’s house.”
“Does it take place every year?”
“Probably.”
“Is any particular day fixed for it?”
“I am not sure. Even I do not know the place, where it is taking place. But round the year we have this fun. You will find soldiers in two camps dressed differently, are fighting with each other. It would be interesting to watch their mock fight. Let’s go. We have to go to my brother’s place first. He has also invited you to the dinner.”
“Oh! Great! My pleasure!”  
----
We started a bit early in the afternoon.  Dave’s brother  lived at a place which was around 40 miles from LA.  Dave took a bottle of wine for his brother’s family. I bought two packs of Indian sweets from an Indian store on our way. We had also the company of a young Saudi student – Adil. He was doing Masters in Computer Science in the USC. We were introduced before. He also rented an apartment in the same housing complex, where I lived.  During our introduction Adil did embarrass me by asking my year of graduate study in the University then. When I replied that I had finished it exactly two decades ago, and was visiting the University on a different purpose, he himself became embarrassed, and observed, “You should have a few more grey hairs by now to account for your professorship!”  Dave was quite fond of him, though he did not approve his love for Western culture and neglect (according to Dave) of his own culture and religion.

Dave loved to talk while driving, and there was no dearth of topics on which he could not speak. However, his favorite was anything connected to religion, and the next would have been on his utopian project of bringing peace and harmony among all religions.  I found Adil was also equally eloquent on different matters. He seemed to be engrossed with contemporary US presidential election, and started discussing on the election of possible Democratic candidate. A few days ago the first debate of Democratic candidates took place. Though Hillary Clinton was supposed to have an initial advantage to win this race, there were a few other names also drawing attention of the media. In fact immediately after the debate, Barak Obama, the young Illinois senator, was declared as a dark horse in that race. Adil thought Hillary would finally be the candidate.  He asked me, “Who do you think, should win this election? I am for the Democrats.”
I told, “How does it matter? Will there be any difference?”
Dave replied, “Oh! Sure! There is a lot of difference between these two parties. It matters who in power is. I am out and out Republican. I give huge donation to their election fund.”
I was aware of his affiliation before. There were a good number of certificates and receipts of donations displayed on his door. Even I found a picture of George and Laura Bush there.  I told him, “Dave! You may feel the differences in your domestic affairs. But, an outsider like me does not find any difference in policies of these two parties.”
Adil told, “But if a Democrat candidate wins the presidency, she will stop war in Iraq and withdraw American forces from there.”
I disagreed, “This decision is not merely a decision of an individual. Finally it is the bureaucrat and the corporate lobby, which matter. You can see Hillary was evasive on this aspect. Though Obama was a bit explicit, but he also played a dubious role in voting against Iran. None of this candidate promised any immediate withdrawal of force after their win. I do not think there is any soft ending of this war.”
Dave changed the topic. He said, “Last weekend my son came to see me. He drafted a will for me. He wants my signature. What he wants do you know?” He looked at me expectantly, and then replied on his own, “He wants my property. The whole bunch of it!”
I asked, “What would you do?”
“I’ll sign.”
I was surprised at his meek submission to his son’s demand. I knew he loved him very much, but he was also not very happy with his life style, which he confided to me previously. As Dave was always strong in his opinion and quite outspoken on matters of his liking and disliking, I thought he would not relent to this demand. So I asked, “What about your daughter? Will you not keep something for her?”
“No. She is not fit for keeping the property.” He was candid enough to declare his intention, and continued, “She has a disease. A very infectious disease!”  He winked at both of us, and explained, “She wants to see everyone happy in this world. I hope you understand. Is there anything worse than this craziness?”
I tried to argue, “But, Dave! Is it proper to keep you daughter left out?”
“Why not? It is my property. I can do whatever I want. Don’t you think that is where the justice lies? Besides, my son will take care of her sister. So where is the question of injustice?”
I found him a bit irritated, and kept mum on this subject. After a few minutes, he said again, “But, I went with him to a party last week, and realized that he is insane.”
Adil reacted, “Nonsense!”
Dave said, “It is true. He could be very rough. Suddenly he could become very angry. At that moment, he may even kill a man. When he returned to Santa Barbara, I wrote him a long mail. I told him that he should realize that he has a crack in his brain. He should take care of this. He replied to my mail in one word – ‘agreed!’ A real CrackJack!”
After a few minutes, Dave once again asked Adil, “What do you think? Will he kill me for the property?”
Adil replied, “I do not think so.”
Dave agreed, “Me too.”
---

There was quite a bit of gathering in Dave’s brother’s house.  He was a lawyer, as well as an accomplished lyricist and singer.   A few weeks ago I met with Dave’s brother and his niece on the occasion of a concert, where his brother played guitar.  That day, he invited also many of his friends and his secretary, a lady in mid-thirties, with their families. Dave’s niece welcomed us.  When I handed over the sweets, she wanted to know how to eat them.  I told her, “Just take them raw. You require neither heating nor cooking.” They were in fact laddus and barfis (typical North-Indian sweets).

The house had a small backyard lawn. There we played a game called ‘Croquet’. I never played it before. However the rules appeared to me simple, though I was not a good learner of the game. I had to pick them while playing only. We played in teams of  three. Dave and Adil were my partners. Each team had a colored ball and a player of a team in turn would have to hit the team’s ball by a stick fitted with a short bar. The stick was called ‘mallet’. The ball had to go through wickets; nine of them were placed on the ground. There was a typical tour path that had to be traversed through these wickets. Each wicket had to be crossed twice in a complete tour. A ball could advance for a wicket only if it goes through the wicket placed before it in the charted path. There was a starting position and a wicket marked to begin with.  Finally, a person succeeding in finishing the track, became a monster or poison. He or she could hit any one’s ball and put the opponent out of the contest. I played quite poorly among all of them. I was not sure how the game ended. It appeared to me, near the end Dave’s brother became a poison and started hitting opponents’ balls to conquer them one by one. However, there was not much of time left for a conclusive finish. We had to rush to the battlefield as Dave’s niece sounded the warning bell for being late at the show.
---
When we reached the venue, we could see that a good number of people were walking across a field to reach the final point of assembly. We also joined the procession. After traversing the field, we walked over a small wooden platform to cross a very narrow ditch. Immediately after it, was the arena of the war-game, which was almost hidden from our eyes by trees, and bushes around its fences. No sooner than we made our entry into that soft muddy corner of the ground, it revealed its secret antique world.  I felt as if we went back to an eighteenth century hamlet, where bearded men wearing top hats with knee long black suits and tight trousers pushed into the leathers of  high boots, were roaming on the pebbled road. Some of them were accompanied by ladies with long striped skirts and long sleeved jackets. They too were wearing colorful and feathered hats. By the side of the roads there were wooden houses, displaying items of yonder days. There were shops with different house hold items for sell. They had kitchen stuff, knives, dresses, mirrors, flutes, toys, hammocks, candles, hats, etc. There were drugstores displaying different colored bottles on a table. It had a old fashioned wall clock and a calendar displaying the dates of 1864. On the road, a few horse drawn empty carts were lying.  In our left side, a makeshift high-wall was erected. We could hear the sound of beating steps of marching soldiers and the shouts of their commanders coming from the zone behind the wall. A soft sweet tune of flute complimenting their marching beats was being played all around us. Occasionally we could hear blowing of whistles from here and there. Against these good number of people in their ‘go as you like it’ nineteenth century dresses roaming, gossiping, laughing, or selling different items in shops, we in our usual attire looked like foreigners there. But very soon, we could also feel our attachment to this new world.  Like us there were many other visitors of this century. However, everyone seemed to be enjoying becoming a part of this field drama on depicting an episode of the American civil war.

Our group came to an area where several tents were fixed by the two sides of the pebbled road. In those tents there were soldiers with their blue uniforms.  By looking at their uniforms Dave commented, “This is the Union camp.” The soldiers in their tents were busy in various activities.  Some were cleaning their rifles, some reading newspapers; even some of them were having a chat with friends. A few of them had special badges indicating their status of officers. At places, a small group of soldiers were standing in rows, and were getting addressed by their commanding officers.  In front of some tents there were also small gatherings of visitors, who were satisfying their queries on tactics and ammunition used during civil war. We also listened to one such conversation. The person was explaining the mechanism of loading a rifle with seven gun shells in a magazine, and removing it after the firing. Dave as usual joined the conversation, and carried on satisfying his queries on different aspects of war tactics. There was an aged man standing aloof from these gatherings. He had many badges in his uniform. Dave went straight to him and asked, “What is your role in this battle?”
“I am the General,” he replied.
“It means, you are General Grant!”
“Yes.”
Dave turned towards me and whispered, “Just imagine, the General Grant himself is standing before us.” Then he asked again, “When will the fighting  start?”
“About half an hour later.”
“Where is your  opponents’ camp? I always side with the opposition.”
“The other side of the ground.”
“Who will win this battle?”
“Today it is the turn of the confederate army.  This is the battle of Cold Harbor. In this battle on a single day, 7000 soldiers of the Union camp were killed.’
Dave remarked, “Great to know that! Then we need to place our loyalty to the victors. Let’s leave these losers, and take shelter in the Confederate camp.”
In the camp of Confederate army too, the soldiers were busy in drills and in other preparations for the war. They were wearing grey uniforms. We did not stay longer there. We had to be near the battle ground for the final show. So we went for visiting various other exhibits in that ground. We visited different shops selling replicas of old items during the days of civil wars. Dave wanted to get a hat. He gifted me one too, and said, “Now, let’s have some vintage touch. Put it on.” I had to wear it. That was the first and the last opportunity I had for wearing it.  After my return, when my wife discovered it, she immediately took it into her safe custody, and would give you a cold look, if you mention about its existence.  She was afraid that I would be crazy enough to ask for it again.
---
There were fences around the battle field. All the spectators were lined up around it. Though there were chairs to sit, many of them remained unoccupied. Most of the spectators preferred to watch the show standing on the ground. The field was quite large. We were standing near the trenches of the unionists, where soldiers took positions with their rifles. The ground was made uneven. At places there were heaps of muds. However, mostly it was an empty corn field. One could see the dry foliages, traces of reaped corns, and their roots scattered around. The other end of the ground was extended towards the left, and met a wall of the compound. Near the wall a barricade was constructed with sacks, wooden planks, and tree-trunks. The confederate soldiers were behind it waiting for the battle. 

Before the show began, a brief description of the episode was narrated over a PA system. The particular battle took place in Cold Harbor in 1864 on the 3rd June. Cold Harbor was a place at a distance of about ten miles from Richmond, the capital of the Confederate States. At this place both the generals from each side assembled with their soldiers. General Grant was encouraged to attack General Lee’s camp to cause severe damage in his battalion. He wanted a decisive victory at that stage. On the other hand the confederate General Lee was more than determined to save his bastion. Initially the unionists made a good progress and did make push towards the confederate territory.  However that proved fatal for them. The soldiers got exposed to the open fire of the confederate army, who were waiting behind the barricade, and a lot many (7000 as mentioned before) union soldiers died on the spot. From the confederate side, the number of deaths was about 1500. Later, General Grant in his memoir regretted the fact that he gave a marching order on that ominous day. Incidentally the battle of Cold Harbor was the last one, where Confederate army had a major victory. Very soon they were defeated in subsequent battles loosing a great number of their ranks and files. In the absence of new soldiers joining for their causes, the army became thinner, and lost its capacity of mounting any serious attack on the unionists. Finally in April 1865, General Lee surrendered to General Grant thus bringing the end of the civil war.

Finally the phony war started. The excitement of the evening was settled with the sounds of firing from guns, and cannons from both sides.  A group of confederate soldiers took positions around the middle of the field and crawled on the ground with guns pointing towards the union camp.  The union soldiers too crawled near the mid-area, and then the exchange of fires between them started. As told, initially the unionists marched forward, while the confederate army moved back behind the barricade. During the exchange of gun-shots a few soldiers from both the camps were found lying on the ground.  Presumably, they were dead or seriously injured.  Then began the bombardment of cannon shells, and firing of gun shots from the barricade on the advancing soldiers of the Union camp.  Most of them fell on the ground. A few could run away towards their trenches. The whole field was filled with smokes and smell of gun powder.  The grayish shadow of the autumnal dusk was spreading its wings over the battleground. Through the smoky fog, we could see the outline of a tall figure limping across the field. The dejected general was returning to his camp stooping his head mournfully, sometimes stopping near a fellow soldier lying on the ground, sometimes watching carefully at the enemy camp. All of us knew that it was merely a staged drama, and were taking consolation from the fact that none of our soldiers died that day. Yet the depiction of the bloody war befell a supreme silence across the arena.  We could feel the trauma, helplessness and sufferings of soldiers in every battle-field. Yet so many are bleeding and dying in today’s world!
---
On our return, there was a long queue of cars waiting to take the exit from the venue. I was in Dave’s car, and his brother was also accompanying us. Adil was in the car driven by Dave’s niece. Dave became impatient while waiting behind the pool of cars for a few minutes. “Let’s do something else,” by saying he drove aside on a non-metal road. None of those cars before us vouched for it. Yet he wanted to check how far he could go driving along it. His brother got nervous and pleaded him to enter the queue. He told him, “What are you doing? No one is following this lane. It should not lead us to the exit. Please turn back, or at least get into the queue from the side. We would be in trouble! You do not know where this road ends. We might have to come back again and wait behind all of them.”
But Dave kept on driving.  He laughed at his brother, “Let’s see. Who knows where it ends?”
It took around five minutes to reach the end of it, meeting at a junction of the entry point of the highway. All other cars were patiently and slowly making their turn to take the exit.  Dave joined them without any difficulty. Throughout this journey his brother never stopped pleading him for turning back, and was scolding him for his impatience and for being unscrupulous. Moment we reached the main road, he called his daughter, “Take the non-metal road running beside. Otherwise you have to wait there for hours.”

10/03/2012